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where clay-limestone soils and Adriatic breezes maintain freshness
A chance to catch a first vintage from a serious grower
saline tension
and enough class to hold its own at the center of the table
with room to grow
Royal Tokaji Wine Co, Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Aszú Gold Label, 2017 (500ml) champagne cracks where clay-limestone soils and AdriaticAsz is among the most labor intensive wines on earth. Pickers move through the vineyard berry by berry rather than bunch by bunch, taking only the grapes that botrytis has shriveled into raisins; those asz berries are then macerated into a base wine and the result is aged at length in barrel. Six puttonyos sits at the top of the classic scale the richest and sweetest expression of the method. Royal Tokaji has been the loudest argument for the region's
