The exception to the exception to the rule: a Bourgogne Passetoutgrain built not from outlying sites but from fruit of legendary villages
raspberry—complemented by subtle earthy notes of forest floor
Jean-Marie Fourrier learned at the elbow of the legendary Henri Jayer
but also elegant in classic bourbon cocktails like a Manhattan or Old Fashioned
schist-and-granite slopes
Jacques Lassaigne, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Le Cotet, NV so032425 produttori 2020s cru offer The exception to the exceptionEmmanuel Lassaigne is the cult grower of Montgueux, an isolated chalk hill near Troyes that locals call the Montrachet of Champagne for the astonishing Chardonnay it grows. 'Le Cotet' is his single vineyard bottling from the first parcel his father Jacques planted back in the 1960s, now old vines on the chalkiest, eastern edge of the hill. Farmed organically, fermented with wild yeast, kept in a solera style reserve system, and dosed barely if at all,